Monday, September 29, 2008

Cultural

Religious Diversity - Limitations to dress and product use

The fashion system works simultaneously with the cultural system. Some cultural systems may put unique restraints on the fashion system. For example since 1979, when the shah of Iran was overthrown ans fundamentalist Islamic clerics took over the country, women’s attire in public has been carefully monitored and controlled. Strong limitations are put on tightness and body exposure in womens clothing styles, as well as on how much of their hair is allowed to show in public.

Dress and World Religions - Islam 1997

Islam is based on the principal of submission to Allah (God). Its Holy texts are the Koran and the Hadith. Islam pays special attention to the status and clothing of women. Although there are no specific injunctions or rules in the Koran regarding veiling, women are believed to have sexual powers that may tempt males. Therefore, many Islamic women veil their faces and cover their heads, hair, necks, and bodies to a greater or lesser extent. The type and extent of veiling of women varies greatly from one Islamic nation and from one group to another, depending on the nature of their beliefs and the political context in which they live. For example Sciolino examines the veiling practices of women in Iran in 1997 and stresses the importance of women’s hair and social status. Veiling also being associated with expressing nationalism and/or anti-Western sentiment associated with rejecting Western fashion.


Damhorst, Mary L. "Fashion as Social Process." The Meanings of Dress. Ed. Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman. New York: Fairchild Books, 2005. 449.


Conflict Between Different Cultures - 1998

January 8
- Ramzi Yousef is sentenced to life in prison for planning the World Trade Center bombing.
January 22 - Suspected "Unabomber" Theodore Kaczynski pleads guilty, and accepts a sentence of life without the possibility of parole.
January 29 - In Birmingham, Alabama, a bomb explodes at an abortion clinic, killing 1 and severely wounding another. Serial bomber Eric Rudolph is the prime suspect.
February - Iraq disarmament crisis: The United States Senate passes Resolution 71, urging U.S. President Bill Clinton to "take all necessary and appropriate actions to respond to the threat posed by Iraq's refusal to end its weapons of mass destruction programs."
February 18 - Two white separatists are arrested in Nevada, accused of plotting biological warfare on New York City subways.
February 19 - 1998 Auckland power crisis: A 66-day blackout begins in Auckland, New Zealand.
February 19 - Larry Wayne Harris of the Aryan Nations and William Leavitt are arrested in Henderson, New York, for possession of military grade anthrax.
February 20 - Iraq disarmament crisis: Iraqi President Saddam Hussein negotiates a deal with U.N. Secretary General Kofi Annan, allowing weapons inspectors to return to Baghdad, preventing military action by the United States and Britain.
March 4 - Gay rights: Oncale v. Sundowner Offshore Services: The Supreme Court of the United States rules that federal laws banning on-the-job sexual harassment also apply when both parties are the same sex.
March 10 - United States troops stationed in the Persian Gulf begin to receive the first anthrax vaccine.
March 24 - The Jonesboro massacre, 2 young boys (aged 11 and 13 years) fire upon students at Westside Middle School while hidden in woodlands near the school. 4 students and 1 teacher are killed, and 10 are injured.
April 6 - Pakistan tests medium-range missiles capable of hitting India.
May 13 -May 14 Riots directed against Chinese Indonesians break out in Indonesia. Indonesian natives destroy and burn Chinese Indonesian-owned properties and kill and rape more than 1,000 Chinese Indonesians.
May 21 - At Thurston High School in Springfield, Oregon, Kipland Kinkel (who was suspended for bringing a gun to school) shoots a semi-automatic rifle into a room filled with students, killing 2 and wounding 25 others, after killing his parents at home.
May 21 - Crime: In Miami, Florida, 5 abortion clinics are hit by a butyric acid attacker.
May 27 - Oklahoma City bombing: Michael Fortier is sentenced to 12 years in prison and fined $200,000 for failing to warn authorities about the terrorist plot.
June 4 - Terry Nichols is sentenced to life in prison for his role in the Oklahoma City bombing.
June 7 - Three white supremacists murder James Byrd Jr. in Jasper, Texas.
August 7 - 1998 U.S. embassy bombings: The bombings of the United States embassies in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, and Nairobi, Kenya kill 224 people and injure over 4,500; they are linked to terrorist Osama Bin Laden, an exile of Saudi Arabia.
August 20 - 1998 U.S. embassy bombings: The United States military launches cruise missile attacks against alleged Al-Qaeda camps in Afghanistan and a suspected chemical plant in Sudan in retaliation for the August 7 bombings of American embassies in Kenya and Tanzania. The al-Shifa pharmaceutical factory in Khartoum is destroyed in the attack.
October - College student Matthew Shepard is found tied to a fence near Laramie, Wyoming, a gay-bashing victim. He dies October 12, becoming a symbol of gay-bashing victims and sparking public reflection on homophobia in the US.
November 13-November 14 - Iraq disarmament crisis: U.S. President Bill Clinton orders airstrikes on Iraq, then calls them off at the last minute when Iraq promises once again to "unconditionally" cooperate with UNSCOM.


Predictions of Cultural Changes Due to Diversity in Society Based on 90's census
The 1990 figures painted a picture of increasing ethnic and racial diversity in the united states. According to estimations based on 1990s census data, the proportion of European-Americans in the United States could be approximately 50 percent by the year 2050. As a result, the United States is rapidly moving to a situation in which there is no ethnic majority group. Three scenarios or possibilities of what could happen:

True Equality: if ethnic minority groups increase proportionately in the U.S. population and increase their educational and occupational achievement, by 2050 the United States might see greater levels of pluralism and decreasing white or European-American hegemony.

White Supremacist Takeover: threatened by affirmative action policies, increasing numbers of minorities in positions of power and achievement, and government policies favoring diversity in schools and other public institutions, wealthy groups of white European-Americans seeking to hold on to privilege and opportunities afforded in the prior hegemonic situation may band together to influence business leaders ,politicians, religious leaders, and media moguls to support new policies and practices that tend to exclude minority groups from the upper echelons of society.

White Backlash: a third possibility could be that increasing diversity in the population could move toward emphasis on ethnic minorities as attractive and anything European-American as unattractive, unfashionable, and unappealing. Those who could afford it might seek physicians who dispense drugs that darken skin color all over the body.



The increasing trend toward recognition of diversity in the population has encouraged the U.S. fashion industry to pay attention to more diverse markets. Interest in ethnic minority consumer markets began rapidly expanding in the 1990’s after U.S. census results indicated substantial and future increases in those populations.

Damhorst, Mary L. "Fashion as Social Process." The Meanings of Dress. Ed. Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman. New York: Fairchild Books, 2005. 528-529.


MEDIA

Rap Influence of the 90’s
Rap groups has a phenomenal influence on adolescent make fashion. A combination of the tough inner-city living situation they came from, their creative music, their rebelliousness, and their active and bold manipulation of style gave rap groups a cachet that captured the interests of many adolescents. In this case, the celebrities who helped to introduce the styles from the streets were the rap performers themselves, rather than unrelated fashion leaders who picked up ideas from lover socioeconomic groups to serve as gap bridgers to the mass public. This giving an example of the trickle up theories of fashion.

Damhorst, Mary L. "Fashion as Social Process." The Meanings of Dress. Ed. Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman. New York: Fairchild Books, 2005. 410-10.

Influences of the Masses

In 1997 Jean Hamilton organized influences of fashion on a continuum from micro – Level personal or individual factors to larger Macro – Level cultural influences. Hamilton emphasized that fashion results from:

( MICRO LEVEL )
1.) Individual action (negotiation with self) within…
a. Individual choice, tastes
b. Aesthetic learning
c. ambivalence
2.) Social groups (negotiation with others) that choose ( or do not choose) products and style ideas offered by…
a. Conformity
b. Fashion leaders and innovators
c. Trickle – down, Across, up, theories
3.) The fashion industry (fashion system) that is, in turn, influenced by…
a. Retail buyers, fashion designers
b. Fashion media and promotions
c. Global production system
4.) Larger trends and forces of the surrounding culture (cultural system).
a. Cultural values and ideology
b. Tradition versus change
c. Media, arts, economy, religion, politics
d. Generation and population trends
(MACRO – LEVEL)

All four levels in the continuum are interconnected in that fashion is influenced by all components of the system working together simultaneously.

Hamilton, J.A. (1997). The Macro-Micro interface in the construction of individual fashion forms and meanings. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 15(3): 164-171.

Popular styles of 1998
Cargo Pants
- Ralph Lauren Cargo pant in suede – $2,295
- Abercrombie & Fitch Cargo pants - $58
- Arizona Private Label cargo pants at JCPenney - $25
90’s
- Flare leg pants

Peoples Worst and Best Dressed List - 1998
- Majority of the best dressed were wearing modest sexy slimming cloths. with tube top shirts and dresses.
- matalic shinny pleather pants were in
- people in fur were in the worst dressed list as well as people that exposed a lot of skin.

http://www.people.com/people/archive/article/0,,20126249,00.html


Damhorst, Mary L. "Fashion as Social Process." The Meanings of Dress. Ed. Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman. New York: Fairchild Books, 2005. 404.

Societal and Environmental Changes

Mayan Calander 2012: The Aztecs, Mayans, and Incas all used the same calendar that ends in our Gregorian calendar year of December 21st, 2012.This causing speculation and fear among people of an apocolips that may be coming.

Chronology of Events that are taking or have taken place in our history that show 2012 will be of great importance.

1.)The Sumerians occupied ancient Mesopotamia (Iraq). They were the 1st civilization to document their lives, their beliefs and facts about their civilization. From them, the Hebrews, Hopi Indians, Greeks, Romans and other civilizations have also recorded historical information that we have today as proof that they indeed lived and survived Nibiru's last visits.
2.)Nostradamus, who lived in the 15th century Europe, had prophetic “visions” that he left for all to read about and heed in the years extending after his death. Many of those predictions have already come true, some still need to occur.
3.)The last time that Nibiru visited our solar system was in the year or years around 1588 BC.
4.)The Earth’s magnetic poles are currently shifting. The North Pole is moving toward Siberia. As these poles shift, the weather systems of the earth also change. There has been unusual weather around the world in the last 20 or so years. The closer Nibiru and its Brown Dwarf / Dark Star gets closer to our solar system, the more their magnetic flux affects the orbits, axis and trajectories of the planets in our system.
5.)The oceans of the earth depend upon the magnetic flux of the earth for their movements. The great currents that move water around under the ocean are beginning to stop, meaning that the ocean water will soon become heated and stagnant, possibly unable to support life.
6.)The Polar ice caps are melting, not due to “global warming” as claimed by global warming activists, but due to the earth’s magnetic poles shifting. As this shift occurs, we are seeing large sections of ice sheets break off at both poles. The earth will change its tilt and its axis will realign once the pole shift completes. Desert regions may now become plush gardens and vice versa.
7.)The Vatican has built two earth based telescopes (Vulcan and Vatt) and is currently about launch their own space based telescope so they can view Nibiru as it approaches. SETI, NASA and several other space organizations around the world have been monitoring Nibiru’s travel via telescopes in Antarctica.
8.)Bible Scripture describes a war in the latter days in the middle east. One that we are involved in. Something will happen that will cause the flesh to melt off the bones and the eyes out of the sockets. This could be a nuclear bomb, a neutron bomb or an impact from an asteroid that could cause this.
9.)The Catholic church is only supposed to have 1 more POPE before 2012. That POPE will admit that they have been misleading the church for hundreds of years causing a renewal to occur in the Catholic Faith.
10.)NASA has named Nibiru (Sedna or Eris) and have left out most details about how it is entering our solar system, where it is entering and that it is part of another Brown Dwarf / Dark Star that is nearing our solar system on the galactic alignment that will occur in December 2012.
11.)It is believed that the coastal areas of the United States will take most of the harsh effects of Nibiru's passing. As Earthquakes increase, there will be parts of the US land mass that succumb to the forces and pressures of the geological changes, lessening our available land mass and giving us new coastal areas.
12.)In January and February 2008, someone working at the SPT (South Pole Telescope) site in the Antarctica, stole telescope photographs of Nibiru as it began passing through our solar system. The photos were given to someone in Switzerland who then posted them in videos on YouTube. This has worried government handlers because now the "cat is out of the bag" on US Intelligence information.

http://december212012.com/articles/general_information/Chronology_of_Events.htm

5 Possible Natural Disasters Headed for the United States by the time of 2012

1.) 40-Mile-Long Mudslide, Washington State: west face of Mount Rainier landslides. U.S. Geological Surveys Cascade Volcano Observatory.
2.)80-Feet-High Tsunami, Atlantic Coast; Cumbre Vieja, the most active volcano in the Canary Islands, lurches as a violent earthquake wracks its upper slopes. A third of the mountain breaks away and plunges into the Atlantic Ocean, pushing up a dome of water nearly 3000 ft. high.
3.) Massive Earthquake alone ancient rift zones
4.)195-MPH Hurricane, Florida
5.) Climate-Change Ocean Disruption, North Atlantic Sea Change:as the climate warms disproportionately at the poles, the gears of the system begin to wobble. Freshwater runoff from Greenland's ice cap and from melting glaciers across the Arctic, combined with increased precipitation, could form a thick, buoyant cap over the North Atlantic.

http://december212012.com/articles/disaster/5_Natural_Disaster.htm

Space Findings - 1998


January 6 - The Lunar Prospector spacecraft is launched into orbit around the Moon, and later finds evidence for frozen water, in soil in permanently shadowed craters near the Moon's poles.
January 8 - Cosmologists announce that the universe's expansion rate is increasing.
March 2 - Data sent from the Galileo probe indicates that Jupiter's moon Europa has a liquid ocean under a thick crust of ice.
March 5 - NASA announces that the Clementine probe orbiting the Moon has found enough water in polar craters to support a human colony and rocket fueling station.
July 5 - Japan launches a probe to Mars, joining the United States and Russia as an outer space-exploring nation.

Natural Disasters - 1998

February 4 - An earthquake measuring 6.1 on the Richter scale in northeast Afghanistan kills more than 5,000 people.
March 14 - An earthquake measuring 6.9 on the Richter scale hits southeastern Iran.
March 29 - A series of 3 tornadoes in southern Minnesota kills 3 people.
April 8 - Birmingham Tornado of April 1998: An F5 tornado strikes the western portion of the Birmingham, Alabama area, killing 32.
April 16 - An F3 tornado passes through downtown Nashville, Tennessee - the first significant tornado in 11 years to directly hit a major city. An F5 tornado travels through rural portions south of Nashville (see 1998 Nashville tornado outbreak).
April 25 - A waste reservoir at the Los Frailes mine in Andalusia, Spain ruptures, discharging heavy metal waste into the Guadiamar River. The pollution threatens the sensitive ecosystem and endangered species of Doñana National Park, Spain's largest nature reserve, but is diverted into the Guadalquivir River. Up to 100 km² of farmland are ruined by the spill.
May 30 - A 6.6 magnitude earthquake hits northern Afghanistan, killing up to 5,000.
July - The Yangtze River experiences massive flooding as the government of the People's Republic of China sends in the Army for flood relief efforts.
July 17 - A tsunami triggered by an undersea earthquake destroys 10 villages in Papua New Guinea, killing an estimated 1,500, leaving 2,000 more unaccounted for and thousands more homeless.
August 7 - Yangtze River Floods: In China the Yangtze River breaks through the main bank; before this, from August 1-5, periphery levees collapsed consecutively in Jiayu County Baizhou Bay. The death toll exceeds 12,000, with many thousands more injured.
October 17-October 18 - severe flooding takes place in south Central Texas.
October 29 - Hurricane Mitch makes landfall in Central America, killing an estimated 18,000 people.


NON-RENEWABLE RESOURCES
Economic interests drive most fashion system decisions, though government interests can put limits on choices, too. Rita Kean pointed out in 1997 that consumer choice is dramatically limited by the industry as it makes many fashion and style decisions based on such matters as cost, production feasibility, government import quotas and gut – level guesses about what will sell.

Damhorst, Mary L. "Fashion as Social Process." The Meanings of Dress. Ed. Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman. New York: Fairchild Books, 2005. 406.

Social (1998)

Conserving Space and Materials
---Renewable Resources

These are resources that can be used over and over again to produce energy. This includes solar energy, wind, geothermal, biomass, and hydropower and ocean energy. These can all be replenished and reproduced easily. Solar energy is in the form of natural sunlight that is turned to electricity and heat. Wind and geothermal are energy sources from inside the earth and biomass derives from plants. Hydropower and ocean energy use water to produce energy.



http://abclocal.go.com/kabc/story?section=resources&id=4120886
Eco-Friendly Fashion
Thursday, April 27, 2006 8:03 AM
Can clothing with a conscience be sexy? Eco-friendly fashion used to be an oxymoron -- something that brought to mind Birkenstocks and burlap sacks.
But no more!
Earth-friendly clothing has undergone a major transformation. It is making the leap from "hippie" to "hip".
Eco-fashion goes haute couture with L.A. based designer Linda Loudermilk's collection of organic, sustainable clothing.
Loudermilk who got her start in Paris didn't have any idea of what sustainable meant.
But, she learned fast. She soon devoted her life and her business to clothing and jewelry that doesn't hurt the earth.
Sasawashi, soya, sea cell, organic cotton and reclaimed lace and beading -- all eco-friendly -- all proof that going green can be chic! It's an idea that's catching on with stars like Lindsay Lohan, Leonardo Dicaprio and more.
From couture to casual -- Patagonia has been using 100-percent organic cotton for ten years now. Why it so important?
Experts estimate that in one year -- 55 million pounds of pesticides are sprayed on non-organic cotton alone. And Patagonia makes its fleece out of recycled soda bottles.
Bryan Hays of Patagonia says to date we've kept I believe 86 million soda bottles out of the landfill.
U2's Bono and wife Ali Hewson created a new line of socially-conscious clothes called "Edun." All made in family-run factories in countries with fair trade practices.
"Loomstate" designs jeans you can look good in and feel good about. The line uses only organic, pesticide-free cotton.
Sportswear giant Nike is also sowing the seeds of change -- blending some organic cotton into all its clothes -- with one line dedicated to 100-percent organic cotton.
Even "Whole Foods" carries an eco-friendly line -- from hats and bags -- to t-shirts and toys.
"Natural High Lifestyle" in Santa Monica set out to prove eco-clothing isn't just for tree huggers anymore! It has a sunset dress that is a popular pick for summer. Shoes, yoga-wear, skirts and scarves -- It's all clothing that's easy on the eyes and the earth.
Even New York's famed fashion week is going green. Earth Pledge -- a non-profit environmental agency -- shot this video of an all-eco runway show with 28 top designers like Oscar de la Renta and Diane von Furstenberg.
By the way -- Linda Loudermilk is opening her own eco-friendly store along Melrose this fall.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Social

Renewable Resources: Bamboo
Used For: shelter, weapons, food, and medicine

A grass that grows to a harvestable height between 3 -5 year
- Some species grow up to 2 feet per day
- It doesn’t require replanting, its extensive root system continually sends up new shoots, naturally replenishing itself.

Perks of Bamboo
- Its 16% harder than maple wood, 1/3 lighter in weight than oak, and in some instances as strong as steel.
- The fastest growing plant on this planet
- A critical element in the balance of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the atmosphere
- A viable replacement for wood
- An enduring natural resource
- Versatile with a short growth cycle
- A critical element of the economy
- An essential structural material in earthquake architecture
- A natural controllable barrier
- An ancient medicine

Bamboo Fiber
Repeated technological analysis has proved that this kind of fiber has a thinness degree and whiteness degree close to normal finely bleached viscose and has a strong durability, stability and tenacity.

It stands abrasion and possesses a perfect quality to spin. The yarn and cloth made by this kind of fiber are labeled first-class quality in all aspects of quality standards.

Bamboo fiber fabric is made of 100% bamboo pulp fiber. It is characterized by its good hygroscopility, excellent permeability, soft feel, easiness to straighten and dye and splendid color effect of pigmentation. It is also a new environment-friendly raw material that enjoys a splendid prospect for application as its predecessor wood pulp fiber. Meanwhile cloth made by the mixed texture of bamboo fiber and cotton or other raw materials also boasts the same superior property.

Bamboo fiber clothes have actually been showing up in department stores and women's boutiques. An exclusive manufacturing process makes it possible to create a highly breathable, absorbent fabric entirely from bamboo fiber. Clothes made of this fabric sell for around the same price as ordinary clothes and have a distinctive softness and cool, light texture.

An interesting information was recently obtained from the market that 100% bamboo yarns show a great elasticity (nearly 20%) in the yarn. Even in woven fabrics a remarkable elasticity can be obtained. Our supplier partner even thinks that in 100% bamboo fabrics there is no need of elasthanes.

Another positive point besides the already known ones is that bamboo fabrics need less dyestuffs than cotton, modal or viscose. It seems that the absorption of dyestuffs is remarkably better. Bamboo absorbs the dye stuffs faster and shows the colors better.

Going Green
- Set up an Indoor Clothesline
- Use fast drying cloth diapers
- Shop for green clothing (organic cotton & silk, ext.)
- Use toxic free cosmetics
- reuse and recycle clothing. Reworked leather or vintage fabrics
- shop for things that are made closer to home
- Reduce Driving
- Turn off lights when not in room
- Don’t leave water running

- There is a rise in interest in carbon-neutral fibers (i.e. plant-based fibers that absorb the same amount of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere during their natural growth cycle as they release on harvesting) such as bamboo, viscose and lyocell.

- Shifting away from oil-based synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, which are non-renewable and non-biodegradable, to a rang of natural and cellulosic fibers like cotton and lyocell, and new breeds of biodegradable synthetics made from plants, like poly(lactic acid) from corn starch and soy bean fiber.

Environmental impacts can occur at every stage of the textile lifecycle (raw materials, production, use and
disposal), irrespective of fibre type.

There are environmental problems associated with the production of manmade fibres, such as intensive
energy use and generation of hazardous air emissions. There are also potential environmental problems
associated with growing natural fibres, including the use of pesticides and degradation of the land.
The major positive and negative aspects of the main fibre types are summarised below.

The positive and negative environmental aspects are identified as follows:




Health Awareness 1998
Jan 1 - Smoking is banned in all California bars and restaurants
Jan 14 - Researchers in Dallas, Texas present findings about an enzyme that slows aging and cell death
June 2 - The CIH Virus is discovered in Taiwan
July 17 - Biologists report in the journal science how they sequenced the genome of the bacterium that causes syphilis, treponema pallidum
Aug 24 - First RFID human implantation tested in the United Kingdom
- An RFID tag is an object that can be applied to or incorporated into a product, animal or person for the purpose of identification and tracking using radio waves. Some tags can be read from several meters away and beyond the line of sight of the reader.

1997 Research Journal - Degree of Health and Effects on Apparel Expenditures

Health and degree of interest in social activity are major variables distinguishing older consumer segments.

Healthy Indulgers: includes retired individuals who focus on enjoying life and doing things they always wanted to do when they were younger, they tend to be in good health and financially better off. They need clothing for active lifestyles, but may shift their expenditures to leisure rather than working related apparel.
Ailing Outgoers: are also socially active, despite having experienced major health problems, they want to get the most out of life and are interested in looking socially acceptable; but are prime market segment for mail-order purchases, probably because of the physical demand of in-store shopping. Also looks for functional cloths with easy dressing.
Healthy Hermits: individuals who’s health is good but who withdraw psychologically and socially to some extent. Many have experienced challenging life events such as the loss of a spouse. They emphasize conformity in clothing and will pay more for well-known brands that give confidence in quality and acceptability.
Frail Recluses: have experienced greater levels of physical decline, which reduces their ability to go out and be socially active. They are more apt to accept old age status. Reduced interests in buying clothing as concerns about limits of retirement income increase and less need for more expensive work and formal clothing.

Lee, J., Hanna, S.D., Mok,C.F.J., & Wang, H. (1997). Apparel expenditure patterns of elderly consumers: A life-cycle consumption model. Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, 26:109 – 140

Social (Lindsey, Kristin)

Renewable Resources

Friday, September 26, 2008

Demographics

Age and Gender Spending
(Specific to Apparel expenditures)

The graph and data above illustrates consumer spending (in 1998) by age and gender in the apparel industry. The strongest apparel market/subcategory is in women's goods and services. Menswear, and then footwear, are a very close second and third categories that remain even with eachother throughout 1998, and children's categories are the smallest market.

It is clearly evident that women, ages 16 and above, are not only the majority of consumers in the United States, but that this category sells the most products and services (for example, items in this category can be gifts bought by another age and/or gender category). This data is strong evidence that adult women are the dominant purveyors of apparel goods and services throughout the United States.

Behavioral (Suzanne)

Behavioral (1998)

Consumers purchase items based on the celebrity clientele that represents them. Athletic footwear has been a huge contributor to the celebrity clientele who represents certain brands either as an endorsement or unintentionally while exercising. Nike is known for their celebrity endorsers, Michael Jordan, Tiger Woods, and Sheryl Swoopes.

Some prices for simple things like the pay phone, have risen to 35 cents instead of the traditional 25 cents. Other things like gasoline, automobiles, food, furniture, and appliances have not risen in price and consumers are surprised at the steady pace of those essentials.

Geographic (Lindsey)

Travelling light: fashion adjusts to demands of climate change
Rise of 'cruise' collections reflects all-year attraction of warmer-weather clothes
Edward Helmore in New York
The Guardian,
Tuesday http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2008/may/27/fashion.climatechange

Changing trends and styles are the stuff that the fashion industry is built on. But some of the biggest changes the multibillion-dollar global industry is undergoing have more to do with global warming than the usual shifts in season and taste.
In New York over the past two weeks, international designers have been showing their resort - or cruise - collections. It's an increasingly profitable avenue for the industry, promoted with expensive catwalk shows and celebrity-studded parties. The warm-weather designs, which arrive in the shops in November, are sold alongside winter clothes which, fashion observers say, may no longer be very wintry anyway.
"The fashion seasons and the weather seasons are equally off-kilter," said W magazine's Trina Lombardo. "They'll put bikinis in the stores in February, and winter clothes in the stores in July when the weather won't turn cold till December. Everyone's talking about season-less clothes, or clothing for all climates."
Originally designed for wealthy women going on beach holidays in January and February, the once-niche cruise collections are an increasingly important component of the fashion business.
Of the several dozen presentations over the past two weeks, designer John Galliano won praise for his fantasy fiesta-inspired Christian Dior catwalk show in New York; Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld threw an Esther Williams-inspired pool party in Miami with a display of synchronised swimmers; and at Calvin Klein, designer Francisco Costa showed sexy, sophisticated clothes that drew acclaim.
Some designers see changes in their business to do with climate; others say that they have clients all over the world, particularly in the increasingly important eastern and Russian markets, who need clothes for different temperatures at different times from the western market. "Women are demanding new things outside the typical season, but it's also climate-related," said Harriet Quick, fashion features editor of Vogue. "You can now buy lighter things all year round."
The confusion between winter and summer in the fashion industry has been growing for a number of years, said designer Narciso Rodriguez. "The materials we used to work with aren't cutting it, so we try to find new ways to address the issue. People aren't really interested in heavy winter coats. They want year-round materials because the seasons have become so erratic.
"In the past, if I designed a collection for winter that had 20 wool fabrics, I now have 12 and many other different kinds of materials," said Rodriguez. "The season shift has become a very real part of our work and it has definitely affected how we design and the way we go about doing business."
As the seasons blur, the industry is adding subsets to the traditional autumn-winter, spring-summer arrangement: pre-collection, cruise or resort, high summer and Vogue's own special designation, "trans-seasonal".
"Women want things that can cross climates and seasons," said Quick. "They want clothes that are neither high summer nor deep winter."
Warm weather clothes are now offered from the end of November - with the arrival of cruise - to August. But even this is confused. The Wall Street Journal reported last week that department stores are putting on early sales, and winter designs already being pushed on to shop floors.
"You can no longer always tell what you are looking at," said Liz Walker, executive fashion editor at Marie Claire. "A winter fashion show may have no coats or sweaters, and the only thing that reminds you it's a summer show is if you see a girl in bikini.
"It's definitely to do with climate change. Ten years ago you knew you were going to have to shoot coats and sweaters in Russia or Iceland, but nobody wants those clothes anymore."
The typical, twice-yearly fashion tour of New York, London, Milan and Paris in January and September is being extended with the emphasis on lighter clothes. "Now that there is a longer season for selling, resort collections can be easy to produce and profitable collections for designers," said US Vogue's Hamish Bowles.
But with the gloomy economic outlook, there is concern that consumers may decide to spend less freely on fashion. Last week, the world's leading fashion designers put on their best, most glamorous evocations of winter spent luxuriating in the Caribbean, to ensure that won't happen.

Designs/Styles (Kristin)

Architecture Style

Modernism:
Modernist architecture emphasizes function. It attempts to provide for specific needs rather than imitate nature. The roots of Modernism may be found in the work of Berthold Luberkin (1901-1990), a Russian architect who settled in London and founded a group called Tecton. The Tecton architects believed in applying scientific, analytical methods to design. Their stark buildings ran counter to expectations and often seemed to defy gravity.

Modernist architecture has these features:
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/7/V/K/cornell9170006.jpg

- Little or no ornamentation
- Factory-made parts
- Man-made materials such as metal and concrete
- Emphasis on function
- Rebellion against traditional styles


Expressionism:
Expressionism evolved from the work of avant garde artists and designers in Germany and other European countries during the first decades of the twentieth century.

Key features of Expressionism are:
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/7/t/j/BabelsbergEinsteinturm.jpg

- Distorted shapes
- Fragmented lines
- Organic or biomorphic forms
- Massive sculpted shapes
- Extensive use of concrete and brick
- Lack of symmetry
- Many fanciful works rendered on paper but never built


Structuralism: Structuralism is based on the idea that all things are built from a system of signs and these signs are made up of opposites: male/female, hot/cold, old/young, etc. For Structuralists, design is a process of searching for the relationship between elements. Structuralists are also interested in the social structures and mental processes that contributed to the design.

Structuralist architecture will have a great deal of complexity within a highly structured framework. For example, a Structuralist design may consist of cell-like honeycomb shapes, intersecting planes, cubed grids, or densely clustered spaces with connecting courtyards.
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/7/r/j/berlinmemorial.jpg


Formalism:
Formalism emphasizes form. The architect is interested in visual relationships between the building parts and the work as a whole. Shape, often on a monumental scale, is the focus of attention. Lines and rigid geometric shapes predominate in Formalist architecture.
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/0/B/8/pei-bankhongkong-pritzker.jpg


High-Tech: High-tech buildings are often called machine-like. Steel, aluminium, and glass combine with brightly colored braces, girders, and beams. Many of the building parts are prefabricated in a factory and assembled later. The support beams, duct work, and other functional elements are placed on the exterior of the building, where they become the focus of attention. The interior spaces are open and adaptable for many uses.
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/7/m/j/pompidou.jpg


Bauhaus:
They wanted to use principles of Classical architecture in their most pure form: without ornamentation of any kind. Bauhaus buildings have flat roofs, smooth facades, and cubic shapes. Colors are white, gray, beige, or black. Floor plans are open and furniture is functional.
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/7/7/Q/gropiushouse046.jpg

International Style: The International Style is the favored architecture for office buildings, and is also found in upscale homes built for the rich.
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/0/8/F/united_nations-at.jpg

Brutalism: The term Brutalism was first used in the early 1950s to describe the simple concrete buildings designed by Le Corbusier. Stark and angular, Brutalism grew out of the International Style, but the designs may strike you as less refined. Brutalist buildings can be constructed quickly and economically.

Brutalist architecture has these features:
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/7/r/P/01_Mendes.jpg

- Precast concrete slabs
- Rough, unfinished surfaces
- Exposed steel beams
- Massive, sculptural shapes

Minimalism: one of the important trend in modernist architecture.

Minimalism includes:
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/0/o/G/luisbarraganhouse-ppl.jpg

- Buildings are stripped of all but the most essential elements
- Emphasis is placed on the outline, or frame, of the struture
- Interior walls are eliminated
- Floor plans are open
- Lighting is used to dramatize lines and planes
- The negative spaces around the structure are part of the overall design

Deconstructivism: s an approach to building design that attempts to view architecture in bits and pieces. The basic elements of architecture are dismantled. Deconstructivist buildings may seem to have no visual logic. They may appear to be made up of unrelated, disharmonious abstract forms. Deconstructive ideas are borrowed from the French philosopher Jacques Derrida.
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/7/u/j/seattlelibraryiStock.jpg

Organic Architecture: Organic buildings are never linear or rigidly geometric. Instead, wavy lines and curved shapes suggest natural forms.
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/0/3/I/utzon-sydney-pritzker03.jpg

Postmodern Architecture:
evolved from the modernist movement, yet contradicts many of the modernist ideas. Combining new ideas with traditional forms, postmodernist buildings may startle, surprise, and even amuse. Familiar shapes and details are used in unexpected ways. Buildings may incorporate symbols to make a statement or simply to delight the viewer.
http://z.about.com/d/architecture/1/7/s/j/attheadquarters.jpg

Fabric/Fiber/Finish (Ashley, Lindsey)

HEMP TRADERSWelcome to Hemp Traders, the world’s largest supplier of hemp products.
This site has a full product list of fabrics sold and there prices. They could be compared to other fabrics to see best cost for lower productiona and sales

Hemp is earth’s most beneficial agricultural crop, providing all the basic necessities for human life: food, clothing, shelter, and medicine. Learn all about the four basic uses of hemp by reading HEMP 101.
Hemp Traders began in 1993 selling both wholesale and retail hemp products such as hemp fabric, hemp twine, hemp rope, hemp oil, hemp clothing, and more. We keep all our products in stock for immediate delivery, http://www.hemptraders.com/

Technology (1998)

Household Products

The U.S. Postal Service portrayed the MixMaster in a stamp series that highlighted twentieth century trends. The MixMaster was chosen as the definitive image of the 1930's. Since the 1930's, the kitchen mixer has enhanced the level of modern convenience both in function and in style. Since the MixMaster stamp in 1998, the kitchen-aid mixer is one of the most popular modern conveniences, being sold in colors ranging from stark white and stainless steel, to bright red and avacado green. The recognition of this product is a relevent representation of the fascination with 1930's vintage and retro styles.



Electronics


Color



Pantone "Color of the Year"
"Blue Iris" was announced late in 2007 as being the "Color of the Year" for 2008. This color is used as an example to encapsulate the emotions that is predicted will describe the consumer direction ("dependable" blue, "soul-searching" purple; "anchoring and meditative with a touch of magic"). Not only is it predicted to lead consumers in fashion, but also in cosmetics and home fashion.




Color Enhances Mood
Color not only reflects a particular design aspect, but can affect the physiology of a person, making them feel hungry, calm, excited, or even arroused. Color choice is not just important within clothing, but also home fashion (wall paint, slipcovers, the popularity of HGTV), and even in technology. Oftentimes, you will see common color choices across a broad spectrum of environments. Hospitals use blues and greens, reds are used often in restaurants and dining rooms, and yellow is best used in dimly lit areas. The folowing is a quick list of some colors and the affects they may have.
Red: Raises excitement, energy, appetite, and arousal levels.
Orange: Warm and welcoming
Yellow: Warm and welcoming, attention-getting
Blue: Calm and tranquil, appetite suppressant
Green: Calm and relaxing, very versatile
Violet: Often disliked by adults but liked by younger children

Societal and environmental changes (Kristin, Lindsey)

Political/Economic (Suzanne, Ashley)

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Cultural (1998)

+ Body Art
· Tattoos, piercings, branding, scarification

Social (Lindsey, Kristin)

Non-renewable recourses: Most of the energy used today comes from nonrenewable energy sources. These include Coal, oil, natural gas, and other materials derived from the fossilized remains of plants and animals. The element uranium is also a fossil fuel that was altered through the process called nuclear fission to produce heat and ultimately electricity. Non renewable recourses combines with air produce different polluting gases in to the atmosphere. These non-renewable resources get used everyday from using electricity to use computers, lights and appliances to put gasoline in cars and machines to make them run. Petroleum which is a nonrenewable resource to produce energy is used in other products such as ink, crayons, bubble gum, eyeglasses ECT. The World’s top five crude-oil producing countries are Saudi Arabia, Russia, Iran, China and the United States. About 58% of the petroleum products and crude oil used in the United States comes from other countries.
(http://www.eia.doe.gov/kids/energyfacts/index.html)

Renewable recourses: These are resources that can be used over and over again to produce energy. This includes solar energy, wind, geothermal, biomass, and hydropower and ocean energy. These can all be replenished and reproduced easily. Solar energy is in the form of natural sunlight that is turned to electricity and heat. Wind and geothermal are energy sources from inside the earth and biomass derives from plants. Hydropower and ocean energy use water to produce energy. (http://www.eia.doe.gov/kids/energyfacts/index.html)

Friday, September 19, 2008

Introductions



Brown Cow

•As a team, we will look into the future as well as the past to gain insight. We will use this knowledge to predict new innovative designs for Butler Bag.









Ashley Coxey


•I am currently a junior and an apparel merchandising major. I am interested in becoming a product buyer for an international company after graduation.














Erica Ditmer


•I am an apparel design major, and excited about working towards the Spring Fashion Show. After graduation, I hope to start working in the industry for a designer label.














Lindsey Hagen


•I am an apparel design major, and excited about working towards the Spring Fashion Show. After graduation, I hope to travel to New York and work as a designer.


















Suzanne Holst


•I am an apparel merchandising major and I’m looking forward to graduation. My future career plans include being a personal stylist for an elite clientele.






















Kristin Kathol



•I am an apparel merchandising major and am excited to further my knowledge in this field. After graduation I plan to work for a company being a buyer.

Strategic Planning

Questions:

How can our team capture the zeitgeist, as it relates to women’s handbags, in order to create an accurate forecast for the 2010 Butler Bag?

How can we as a team collect qualitative data by examining hidden currents?

To answer these questions, we will break down the macro environment into the following researchable categories.

The Macro Environment: past (year: 1998) and current (2008):

The Context:

- Social (Lindsey, Kristin) :
o Conserving space and materials
+ Renewable resources
· Bamboo, Solar energy, wind energy, bio diesel fuels
+ Going Green
· Organic grown and produced materials, recycling / re-using
+ Health Awarness
· Organic products, exercise, proper nutrition, active lifestyles
- Cultural (Kristin Erica):
o Tradition
+ Body Art
· Tattoos, piercings, branding, scarification
o Beliefs
+ Religious diversity
· Limitations to dress and product use
· Celebrations
o Conflict between different cultures
+ Wars
· International hostility
+ Religious Conflict
· Middle East
o Media
+ TV, Magazines, Radio, Red Carpet Events
· Elite influences the masses
- Political/Economic ( Suzanne, Ashley) :
o Economic aftermath of the presidential election
+ Conspicuous consumption
· Purchasing of unnecessary items during economic slump
o Recession vs. Growth
+ Unemployment Rates
· Fewer jobs = Less income = less buying
· More Jobs = More Income = More Buying
+ Discretionary income
· Poor economy = less spending money = less buying
· Price Points fluctuate
· Comparative shopping to save money and not give up fashion
- Societal and environmental changes (Kristin, Lindsey)
o Possible Natural Disasters
+ Myan calendar 2012
o Non-renewable resources
+ Forest Clearing
+ Petroleum
+ Clean Water

The Product:

- Color (Suzanne, Erica):
o Color wheels
+ Style.com
+ Nordstrom’s
+ Pan Tone
+ Color Association
o Colors that influence mood
+ Red = Hunger
+ Cool Colors = calming
+ Warm color = Exciting
o Designer collections from Fashion week
+ New York vs. Paris
o Alternating dark and light
+ Seasons
+ Years
- Technology (Ashley, Erica)
o Household Products
+ Materials used for products
· Glass, Plastic, Metal, Wood
+ Color Trends
· Kitchen Aid
+ Products doubling as décor
· The “Cone” Vacuum
o Electronics
+ IPods, Laptops, Zune’s, Cell phone covers
o Motor vehicle Styles
+ Car Colors
+ Boxy vs. Round
+ Futuristic vs. classic
- Fabric/Fiber/Finish (Ashley, Lindsey)
o Raw Materials
+ Woods
· Bamboo
+ Fibers
· Organic Cotton
· Hemp
o Animal Products
+ Hides
· Leather / Fur
+ Synthetic Products
· Lowers costs for production and sales
· Reduces controversy

- Designs / Styles (Kristin)
o Influential factors
+ Furniture style lines
· Big vs. Little
+ Architecture style lines
· Patterns
· Bridges
+ Art movements
· Art Nouveau
· Modern
· Florals
+ Alternating soft and flowing lines

The End User

- Geographic (Lindsey)
o National vs. International
+ Internet accessible
+ Status of global market
o Climate
+ Styles for warmer and colder climates
- Psychographic (Erica)
o Consumer Values
+ What fashion means to different people
+ Conformity vs. individuality
- Behavioral (Suzanne)
o How and what consumers buy
+ Fashion vs. Necessity
o Consumer Patterns
+ Surveys, interviews, observations
+ Willingness to pay for product
- Demographics (Ashley, Erica)
o Age
+ What age groups are buying what?
+ How much are they spending on average?
o Gender
+ Male vs. Female spending
· Do women spend more than men?
o Income
+ Disposable Income vs. Discretionary income
· What gender/age group has the most discretionary income?
o Education
+ How does a higher education influence a consumers buying habits?
+ Does rising cost of education reduce spending for certain products?